Meet the artist behind the work

When I was first coming up with Haute as an idea, Maxine was pursuing fashion design in creative ways. From commissions for prom dresses to short fashion shows at our high school, they had an unequivocal talent and passion for this art form that needed to be cultivated and celebrated.

Besides our fashion mentor Margaret Kwon, Maxine was the first designer we connected with to build out this platform. We are so excited to share one of our many conversations with them.

Haute: Can you tell us about your journey as a self-taught designer? Why, when, and how did you start teaching yourself?

Maxine: I first got into fashion when I was about ten. My mom had bought me a collector Barbie fashion calendar with illustrations of these gorgeous gowns, and I fell in love with them. I began drawing similar ones and then making clothes for my dolls because I wanted to create my own versions and translate my ideas into reality. After that, I started to make actual human clothes, draping fabric on a mannequin my mom’s friend had given me. Obviously, that is more complicated than [the] doll clothes but I learned how to incorporate the lines of the human body into the patterns I made with trial-and-error until I figured out a system that worked for me. I’ve been sketching fashion ever since I was 10 and made my first evening gown when I was in middle school. Later on, I did take some pre-college classes from time to time [at F.I.T. and Parsons] which helped solidify my construction skills.

What advice do you have for those who want to start designing but are not sure what path to take?

Start sketching, doing research on trends and different designers. There are also so many tutorials online. I don’t use them much, but a lot of my friends really like them. See if the design process is something you resonate with. Obviously, the actual fashion industry is much more than design and construction of garments, so it is good to be familiar with those aspects too to see which parts you want to pursue. There are many different jobs within the industry.

I’ve seen your commission work and have had you make dresses for me actually. What do you like most about commissions? What’s the story behind your favorite commission so far?

I like how I can work within a certain framework, e.g. what the client wants. But I always incorporate my own design vision into it. So I think working with other people, bouncing ideas off [of them,] and finding that happy medium between what I think is best and what the client wants is a fun challenge.

One of my favorites was a prom dress for my friend, Jasmyne. She wanted something red and classic but with some kind of unique edge. We ended up doing a corseted full length gown but incorporated some lace into a halter neckline with hand beading and I think we were both really happy with the finished product.

I’ve seen your commission work and have had you make dresses for me actually… What do you like most about commissions? What’s the story behind your favorite commission so far?

I’m actually pursuing a dual degree (BA/BFA) so I get the full run on both fashion and biology. I’m really inspired conceptually by different topics learned in science e.g. mullerian mimicry…earth sciences etc. and like to make design concepts surrounding those. But my studies in biology also expose me to what the earth needs to function and that influences how I use sustainability in my work because I truly care about the environment and making my work with either sustainable fabrics, minimal waste or a combination.

I think because there are so many problems in the world right now, especially with climate change, biodiversity, and the overall environment, it’s important to have people who have knowledge of what the fashion world wants and needs and what the science community is pushing for in terms of sustainability. And also what we need to do to lower the [negative] impact of fashion. I also have been learning about forms of mimicry in my classes which have inspired me to do more research on biomimicry which could be an important tool for making fashion more sustainable.

How has Sam Fox cultivated your talent? What are you most excited to learn more about in fashion that may or may not be available to you?

I’ve been exposed to many different types of art which influences how I design. For example, my first year, I took foundations (2D, 3D, drawing, and digital studio) which showed me different tools to design with but also different artistic elements to incorporate into my designs. Whether it be 3D techniques or linework. I’m really excited to learn more about sustainability at all levels of fashion e.g. with the manufacturing process, waste disposal, fibers themselves, dyes, and circular processes. I am always doing research on such, and it is something I’m very passionate about.

You’ve mentioned reservations about working in the fashion industry before. Could you tell us a little more about that and how that fits with your current goals? What legacy do you hope to have in fashion and in the larger world?

While I love fashion and am happy when making clothes, I know fashion has a huge environmental impact and we are in the midst of an environmental crisis and sometimes I do feel that I could accomplish more important work if I went into an environmental or conservation field. So I’m currently not completely sure which path I will take but ideally some combination would be amazing. I do hope I can incorporate sustainability into fashion but starting out, it is hard for one individual to make drastic changes in a system as large and powerful as fashion. Fashion sometimes has also traditionally not been the most inclusive or ethical industry [though] I do see a transition toward inclusivity and accessibility, which I think is important. At the end of the day, I want to maintain my values of community and sustainability and there are many people in fashion who do care about such things. So it’s important for me to recognize that.

What advice do you have for designers and consumers who may share the same reservations about fashion as you? What changes do you hope to see in the industry in the next decade?

As cliche as it sounds — be the change you want to see. Just because you have reservations about the industry and decide to pursue something else doesn’t mean those traits e.g. negative environmental impacts will just go away. The fashion industry needs leaders who truly value both the environment, ethics, and fashion who can create change and a more sustainable system. Because fashion is important and is something that touches nearly everybody.

I hope the industry becomes more inclusive on all fronts, and that certain types of garments, e.g. sustainable ones or more unique clothing items are accessible to more people. I hope that the industry can change on a worldwide scale to be kinder to laborers and to the environment…perhaps with a circular manufacturing system or having scientists help with the sustainability component. Whether it be with new sustainable fibers or other methods to minimize waste and emissions.

Tell us about your current projects. What inspired you to pursue them and what does success look like to you?

I’m currently super busy with all my classes so my main projects have been those for my classes. I’m doing a fashion project for my illustration class about migratory bird decline, which is one issue from climate change and human impacts on [the] environment.

We need to protect these birds. I created watercolor paintings of birds and printed them on fabric which I will use to make some evening gowns. I also made some fabric with text I wrote about songbird decline and why it matters and these will be used too in the collection. My overall goal is to raise awareness about songbird decline and songbird window strikes. [Through] fashion, I might reach people who otherwise might not know about the issue, as it’s pretty niche but fashion is more mainstream.

For me, success is a balance between creating something that accurately portrays my vision. And also creating something original, visually interesting, and well thought-out. I do always love when there’s a very positive consumer/ audience response to the garments. But it’s especially meaningful to me if my pieces can spread important messages or tell a story about nature.